Planning a solo trip to Fes, Morocco? Here’s everything you need to know for your visit:
QUICK FACTS
- The third largest city in Morocco, with a population of over 1.2 million people.
- Fes is home to the largest medieval old town in the world, with the medina being a true labyrinth of 9,000+ streets.
- Fes el-Bali (Old Fes) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and contains the world’s oldest university – the University of al-Karaouine.
- Often described as “pure sensory overload” with its pungent smells, raucous sounds, and vibrant colors.
- Nicknames: Mecca of the West, Athens of Africa.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
- Currency: Dirham (MAD).
- Spoken languages: Arabic and French.
- Best time to visit: Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September-November), as these seasons offer more pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds.
- Arriving from the airport: Fes-Saïss Airport (FEZ) connects to the city with bus route #16 priced at 4 MAD one-way (40 minute journey).
– Taxis charge a flat fee of 150-200 MAD to the centre, but are not allowed inside the Medina. - Arriving by train from Marrakech to Fes takes approximately 6+ hours, with stops in Casablanca, Rabat, and Meknes.
- CTM bus services are a reliable option for intercity travel throughout Morocco.
- Staying connected: purchase a local SIM card (30-50 MAD) at the airport or in Ville Nouvelle.
- Useful apps: Maps.me (works offline in the Medina), Google Translate with Arabic downloaded.
- Power adapters are type C/E (European style). Two round prongs.
WHERE TO STAY
- Best Fes hostel for solo travelers: Medina Social Club. A beautiful colorful riad experience at hostel prices – amazing value in a great location (centre of the Medina).
– Friendly and welcoming staff.
– Very clean, safe, and organized.
– Generous daily breakfast included.
– Make sure to book ahead! Especially during high season. - Locations near Bab Boujloud (Blue Gate) provide convenient access to the Medina’s main attractions.
- Ville Nouvelle is the new part of town, removed from the hustle and bustle and perfect for those looking for a more tranquil setting.
GETTING AROUND
- Walking is the most convenient way to explore the city. Most attractions, entertainment and eating options are clustered around the Medina – pack comfortable footwear for as the streets are cobbled and uneven.
– Tip: hiring an official guide for your first day in the Medina is recommended if you’re prone to getting lost! 300-450 MAD for an introductory half-day tour should do the trick.
– GPS and mapping apps often don’t work well in the Medina’s narrow alleys. - Petit taxis can be hailed from anywhere on the street, and are supposed to run on meter and have a laminated display of tariffs. As the Medina is closed to motorized traffic, passengers are dropped off at the main gates.
- Rental cars are available from a number of international companies such as Hertz and Europcar for reasonable prices (700-1000 MAD weekly, approximately $70-100).
– Cars can be picked up at the airport and returned at other recognized stations.
– For day trips, organized tours are often more convenient than self-driving. - The train is an excellent option for traveling to/from Fes to other major Moroccan cities (Marrakech, Casablanca, Rabat).
FES NIGHTLIFE
- Drinking age is 18 and last call is 2 AM.
- Nightlife options are limited to restaurants/cafes or hotel lounges.
– Tip: rooftop restaurants near Bab Boujloud offer stunning sunset views over the medina. - The Mezzanine in Fes el-Bali is popular with the hip crowd. Chilled beers and cocktails are complemented by a stunning courtyard and live music.
- Smart casual does the trick at Fantasia for an evening spent savouring authentic Moroccan cuisine followed by theatrical performances with exotic Arabian and Bedouin dancing.
- Great bars for solo travelers: Bar des juifs, British Saloon (sports bar), and Bar Café Dalila (for chilling out and people watching).
- Solo female travelers: it’s safer to enjoy nightlife activities at hotel restaurants and rooftop venues.
UNIQUE LANDMARKS TO VISIT
- The 9,000 alleyways that serve as arteries to the Medina are a trove of cultural interests. Hammams, mosques, tiled fountains and historic workshops stand elbow to elbow in a dense flurry.
– Note: if approaching a tour guide, negotiate on prices before embarking on the trip. Standard rates: 300-450 MAD for half-day and 500-700 MAD for full-day tours. - The Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts has a fascinating collection of traditional wood crafts in what used to be an important foundouk (an inn for travelling merchants).
- Bou Inania Madrasa is an impressive example of Merinid architecture. The former theological institution dates back to the 12th century – the only madrasa with a pulpit and minaret.
- Chouara leather tanneries are an experience unique to Fes. The harsh odours of animal hide and pigeon excrements are impossible to miss but there is no better way to witness the medieval process of dyeing leather than here.
– Tip: if offered a sprig of mint, accept and hold it under the nose to mask the pungent smells.
– Tip: leather shops surrounding the tanneries offer viewing terraces (often with mint sprigs) for great photo opportunities. - While Kairaouine is restricted to Muslims, this mosque is Morocco’s second largest and one of the world’s oldest universities. Peek through the gates and admire the façade.
– Update: visitors can now access certain areas of the University of al-Karaouine during specific hours. - Borj Nord Arms Museum houses one of the world’s largest collections of weaponry.
- Tip: it’s good manners here to ask permission before taking photos of people, particularly in the Medina.
- Day trip idea: Volubilis (100km from Fes), showcasing well-preserved Roman ruins.
INTERESTING WALKS
- Wake up really early and go for a sunrise stroll through the Medina (before the crowds arrive).
– Alternatively, try a walk along the exterior walls of the medina for impressive views. - The souks in the Medina are famous for their diversity. For antique ceramics, genuine handmade carpets and authentic jewellery head to Coin Berbere.
- Walk along Fes el-Jdid until the Royal Palace rises in sight. The Mellah and its emblazoned Jewish iconography can be found in the same neighborhood.
- Unwind in Jardin Jnan Sbil away from the congestion of the claustrophobic alleyways.
- Hike to the Merenid Tombs off Borj Nord and take in the skyline of the old city.
WHERE TO EAT
- Moroccan cuisine takes influence from Berber, Arabic and Moor civilizations. Classic dishes include Harira, a soup used to break the fast observed during Ramadan, Tagine (a stew of meats and vegetables), and Pastilla, made from pigeon meat.
- Local snacks to try: snails (a delicacy), grilled meats, or sweets from local vendors.
- Great restaurants to try in Fes: Al Oud, Le Tarbouche, Veggie Pause (vegetarian), Le Cave, Fondouk Bazaar, and Darori.
- Where to find good cheap eats: the streets of the Medina are unbeatable for variety and prices, while Fassi flavours are best savoured sitting at any café and restaurant in Batha.
- Bakeries are plentiful and sell excellent pastries, baguettes and breads from early morning.
- Café Clock (try their camel burger) offers cultural events along with food, making it ideal for solo travelers.
- Typical prices: Budget meals (30-70 MAD), mid-range (100-200 MAD), high-end (250+ MAD).
- Cooking classes are increasingly popular (250-500 MAD) and a great way for solo travelers to meet others.
SAFETY TIPS
- Solo female travelers should dress conservatively (shoulders and knees covered).
- Avoid walking alone in the Medina after dark.
- Keep a business card from your accommodation (with the address written on it) to help find your way back.
- Watch out for persistent vendors and fake guides. Refuse politely, but firmly.
- Official guides wear green badges – if they don’t, they are not registered and are probably just looking for quick cash.
– Be prepared to be approached by unofficial guides at Bab Boujloud - Carry only limited cash and keep valuables secure (watch your belongings).
- Notify your accommodation if taking day trips alone.
- Dangerous areas: the same alleyways that appear safe during the daytime can turn sinister when it gets dark – avoid wandering around the Medina late at night.
- Female travelers should expect to get plenty of unwanted attention in Morocco – this is unavoidable and best ignored.
LOCAL WISDOM
- The Festival of Sacred Music held in May/June is the region’s pride, with performances brightening up courtyards and stages hosted around the main squares. Accommodation sells out quickly as early as the year before, so book in advance.
- Business negotiations almost always require the proceedings to be discussed over mint tea. It is considered rude to decline the offer, so accept even if not feeling thirsty. Customs are very important to the locals.
- Learning a few Arabic or French phrases will significantly enhance your experience.
- Moroccans place a high value on respect and politeness.
- While the observance of Ramadan shouldn’t affect visitors, it can make for an interesting visit. Dates change every year but generally fall in the month of August-September according to the lunar calendar. Out of respect, try not to eat, drink or smoke in public while the locals observe the fast.
EXAMPLE FES ITINERARY (3 DAYS)
- Day 1:
– Morning – Guided tour of the Medina
– Afternoon – Visit Bou Inania Madrasa and Al-Attarine Madrasa
– Evening – Dinner at a rooftop restaurant near Bab Boujloud - Day 2:
– Sunrise – walk through the Medina
– Morning – Explore the tanneries
– Afternoon – Visit Nejjarine Museum and Mellah (Jewish Quarter)
– Evening – Cooking class or dinner - Day 3: Full-day trip to Volubilis and Meknes or relaxing hammam experience followed by shopping in the souks.
Recommended trip duration: 2-3 days (add a day if exploring outside of Fes).